Oliver Trials

January 12, 2017 4 Comments

Oliver Trials

 

We have been eager to make a cap toe Balmoral since the inception of Grant stone. This "straight tip" pattern has a rich history and is understood worldwide as a staple dress shoe.

Named after the Balmoral castle in Scotland, this sophisticated dress Oxford (after Oxford England) has the role in every man’s closet as the consummate "go to" suit shoe. 

Over the past six months we have been developing the "Oliver" last trying to achieve an aesthetic balance and a generous yet controlled fit. Traditionally, the cap toe Balmoral pattern is a slender, elegant last where at times toe freedom is sacrificed. Our goal was to develop a last maintaining the lines and shape of a traditional Balmoral while allowing room for the forepart of the foot. 

We opted to proceed with the classic six eyelet pattern versus the five eyelets striving for a controlled heel fit. After the latest adjustments, our trials seem to have accomplished back part control and toe freedom with adequate throat volume. This Balmoral is also being made with vegetable tanned leather heel counters that will last years without loosing shape or collapsing.

This particular pattern will need minor revisions and a few more months of wear test before proceeding into various sizes. Our goal is to release two Balmoral patterns on the new Oliver last by Fall of 2017.

Below are a few photos which were taken while making the cap toe trial.

 

  Sample is using a Chestnut colored Calf by Annonay

Lasting the upper

 After a light antique finish.

Stitching the outsole

 

 

 

 

 




4 Responses

Grant Stone
Grant Stone

January 19, 2017

Thanks Robin. We will try to keep the same logic for the Oliver last, sizing down roughly half a size from TTS. However the shoe will be slightly narrower, but not by much.

A semi-brogue or cap toe medallion will be part of the line up. This should also be ready sometime in 2017.

robin
robin

January 17, 2017

Great look! Also looking forward to a black colour-way.

Two questions:

1. I assume it’s a bit slimmer than the Leo last for you long wings? is it much slimmer?

2. Do you think down the line you’ll look at adding some oxford brogue options?

Thanks!

Grant Stone
Grant Stone

January 12, 2017

Thanks for the comment. We do plan on offering a Black color-way for the first run. It will most likely be a French Calf article from the Annonay tannery.

Brenk Johnson
Brenk Johnson

January 12, 2017

Those look amazing. I need a new pair of black dress shoes for the rare occasion that I wear a suit. If you think you’ll come out with these in black, I will hold off and buy these.

Leave a comment

Comments will be approved before showing up.